If Paris Fashion Week has a solid couture-like essence and New York boasts creative commercialism, its London Fashion Week that is being considered the great creative hub for young designers. This season was no exception, with designers experimenting with shapes and volumes in order to define a fresh sartorial language. From traditional fashion forces to up-and-coming designers, here are the shows that made the town talking:
Simone Rocha’s soft feminity has long been a hit amongst fashion influences and connoisseurs and this season was no exception. Combining romantic shapes with feminine yet almost Goth-like details she exceled at building a solid fashion universe that was appealing to both young and older. Balloon shaped skirts and dresses and fierce red coats were an instant hit but it was the embroidery and beading details that elevated the show to an almost couture-like quality.
Riccardo Tisci for Burberry
Designer Riccardo Tisci has a cult-like following and his second show for British heritage brand Burberry showed he is still a major player in the fashion game. With references to street style and an essence of rave culture, he built his collection around the two poles for traditional brutishness and London youth revolt. Burberry’s signature beige coats were reworked into fuller shapes combined with slip dresses and bold prints in shirts-with baseball caps to match.
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner is a young designer that has early managed to catch the attention of fashion editors-and for a very good reason. Her Fall 2019 ready to wear show was the talk-of-the-town before even happening and attracted a large number of fashionistas, from students to established professionals. Presented at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery where she had curated an exhibition, the show had it all: tailored pants and long shirts with logos and a series of overcoats and jackets that reflected her black-culture references.
Matty Bovan’s shows have always been a celebration of the eccentric and his Fall 2019 one was certainly no exception. Japanese influenced dresses worn with statement hats were the norm-and caught the attention. Pop art patterns and bright colors were everywhere, from jackets to skirts,. His work seemed to include a variety of ideas filtered under Bovan’s personal aesthetic for the eccentric-and it worked.
Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2019 show was inspired by the fundamental elements of nature: the qualities of earth, water, air, and fire were interpreted into multi-colored voluminous dresses covered in ruffles. Her couturier-like qualities were best presented in multi-colored ostrich feathered coats and dresses that have already become an internet sensation. Striped coats and a series of bold evening dresses in all rainbow colors were the closing sensations of yet another successful show-both creatively and commercially.